A Tale of Two Cities

The Vancouver you see, and the one you don’t

Hollow Tree, Stanley Park
Film set on Alexander Street, Gastown

Left: Hollow Tree, Stanley Park; right: film set on Alexander Street, Gastown

Vancouver’s youth, like its size, is easy to overlook. From the air, the downtown commercial grid, circumscribed by salt water and shining in the sun, calls to mind a sort of a mini-Manhattan, as snugly fitted as a Lego project. But look closely, and you’ll notice that only recently have the central buildings started to poke dramatically upward; only now is a mature skyline taking shape, the last of the baby teeth being displaced. Not so long ago, this thrumming, cosmopolitan nexus was little more than old-growth forest. In 1881, three decades after St. Michael’s College was founded in Toronto, it was a rudimentary settlement of some 1,000 souls. Unlike the principal cities of the East, Vancouver is only now starting to take its place in the world, to understand the value of heritage, to unfurl a history and plot a future.

One night at the Blue Boy, a union pal of my father’s drunkenly informed me that he just might have found the cure for my virginity. He was an expert in such matters, and he figured a certain young woman in the coffee shop could be the ticket. “Partner,” he said with a wink, “why don’t you head down and give it a shot?” When he volunteered to come along for moral support, I made some excuse, but of course I headed downstairs by myself at the first opportunity.

I spotted her at once, as would anyone with a Y chromosome. She was stunningly endowed, effortlessly lovely; notepad in hand, she was absorbed in the task of taking an order. I sat at the counter, trembling and dry mouthed. Only when she came over and handed me a menu, brushing aside a tendril of blond hair, did I realize she was not a young woman at all. She was a girl, scarcely older than I. Her name was Lila; her name tag said so.

Ever since that stay at the Blue Boy, through many years in Toronto and stints of living abroad and a permanent move to the West Coast in 1989, I’ve associated Lila with Vancouver — younger than she seems, less sophisticated than she might like, undeniably radiant, proud to be attracting attention but not quite sure how to deal with it, a little self-conscious as the first complications of maturity settle upon her. You can’t help but marvel at her good fortune, her beauty. You admire the earnestness of her endeavours. You envy the wealth of her possibilities.

You wonder what she’ll become.
Gary Stephen Ross is a bestselling author and the former editor of Saturday Night. He is currently the editor-in-chief of Vancouver magazine.
Grant Harder is completing a project exploring gold rush towns in BC. To see more of his photographs from this story, pick up a hard copy of The Walrus's March 2010 issue.
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4 comment(s)

AnonymousSeptember 21, 2010 12:32 EST

This is the first article I have ever read that represents Vancouver as I experience it living here.
I congratulate the author on the non-fluffy prose, the depth of the story, the breadth of the portrait, and his personal best on the Grind.

I want to know more about Bob the Builder.

CPNovember 04, 2011 14:48 EST

Just thought this was a fine article on a city I've heard so much about but never been to. I studied in Toronto for over 5 years and sadly I never made it to Vancouver.

AlanaNovember 07, 2011 16:24 EST

Enjoyed this article, sets the right tone. Lived in Vancouver much of my life and often describe it as a teenager searching for identity. Like the little sister tagging along on a night out with San Fran and New York. Struggling to fit in with the big kids while asserting her own opinion sometimes a little too loudly.

ZerodownNovember 12, 2011 15:59 EST

You mention it in passing, the overvalued real estate, but it is so much the centre of the story. The price run-up has been the defining event of her adolescence, to play along, and the comeuppance will probably end her flirtations with worldliness, at least for another decade. Many people have paid up and speak lovingly of the wine, priced high-enough-to-impress, while the quality and taste can be imputed later (Who cares about the grape, I'll sell my other six bottles for twice this in a year or two (Then what?)). There can be no real arts culture, or even student culture, in a real estate obsessed city. It's not just the incalculable cost, it's the space it takes up in the imagination and conversation.

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