http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs Fearless. Thoughtful. Witty. Canadian. And Opinionated. Mon, 01 Dec 2008 17:27:37 +0000 http://backend.userland.com/rss092 en So it does not go on forever, what one passenger called "Matthew Swan’s floating circus." There are grand finale events planned, of course—the final recap, the captain’s dinner, Aaju’s fur fashion show, the variety show. But the last day also had serendipitous moments… Walrus public square, part one Earlier in the trip, ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/30/the-last-day/ LYUBOV ORLOVA—The fish bought in Greenland by the ship and served subsequently several times for dinner was called simply “halibut” on the menu; and then someone would say, well, really, it is turbot. It did not taste like my idea of “halibut”—the glorious weighty fish caught in late spring off ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/29/holy-flatfish-halibut-or-turbot/ The Arctic, to the new eye, looks like a barren place, an empty place. But in fact this apparently desolate landscape, and seascape, have rich stories to tell; you just have to know how and where to look. This means seeing a little clump of twigs with red leaves ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/24/1981/ She was born in a northern Greenland community and lived up and down the west coast, because her father was a teacher and preacher. In 1981 Aaju moved to Iqaluit, where she now resides. She reads and speaks many languages, is a graduate of Akitsiraq Law School, and designs stunning ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/23/arctic-dialogues-aaju-peter/ AASIAT, GREENLAND—We are going to play soccer against a group of elders in a thirty-five-seat stadium. This is all we know, except that this is an Adventure Canada tradition. But when the ship docks in the early morning, there is a group of elders on the pier, dressed in smart ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/22/big-jims-day/ THE LYUBOV ORLOVA—We are in Greenland, motoring through battalions of icebergs off the west coast. In the collision of light, rock, ice, water and sky, it is the most beautiful landscape I have ever seen. The small town of Ummannaq, for example, sits under what can only be described as ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/21/the-beauty-of-greenland/ The Walrus Arctic Dialogues: a series of conversations on board the Lyubov Orlova, crossing to Greenland For photos from the first Walrus Arctic Expedition to Baffin Island (Sept. 2-12), click here.First Dialogue: John Huston, culturalist and filmmaker—son of Arctic curators the late James and Alma Houston, John was a child at ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/19/the-arctics-best-and-worst/ THE LYUBOV ORLOVA—The word for walrus is aaivik. There is a delicacy called iguunaq that the Inuit make by killing, gutting and boning a walrus, then sewing up the flesh and skin, and finally burying it from early summer until winter, when it is dug up and eaten (still frozen). ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/18/of-walruses-and-sealing/ Sunset off the stern, Devon Island ahead, a clear night, a calm sea. John Geiger’s documentary Frozen in Time introduces On September 12, authors and journalists and contributors to The Walrus joined The Walrus Expedition for a fourteen-day voyage in the Canadian Arctic aboard the Russian icebreaker Lyubov Orlova. The ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/17/the-franklin-pilgrimage/ Author Marian Botsford Fraser begins her 11-day voyage on The Walrus's chartered expedition through the Canadian Arctic On September 12, authors and journalists and contributors to The Walrus joined The Walrus Expedition for a fourteen-day voyage in the Canadian Arctic aboard the Russian icebreaker Lyubov Orlova. The expedition—in partnership with Adventure ... http://www.walrusmagazine.com/blogs/2008/09/16/flying-boats-and-boats/